Eagle Nest Wildlife Sanctuary

This was a long awaited trip. The name itself, Eagle Nest Wildlife Sanctuary, had captured my imaginations when I had seen it in the itinerary, as I have always been fascinated by eagles.

We left for the sanctuary at around 8 in the morning. Forty six of us left in three vehicles - two Sumos and an open Trax with many happily perched on top of the vehicles. Infact everyone wished to sit on the top as it is a different thrill to sit holding on to your lives. The light drizzle and cold wind adds further to the excitement.

This time I was not lucky enough to find a place on top and envied the guys having fun sitting atop on the vehicles in front of us. They kept disappearing and reappearing in the winding roads which in some places were at the very edge of precipitous slopes, while at other places very narrow. Soon the ride became bumpy as the tar road disappeared into an off road leading inside the forest. Then I heard the ‘ahhs’ and ‘oohs’ of people sitting on top and realised how blessed I was!

Our vehicle being an open half- truck people were either standing or squatting. So our driver had to slow down as the ride became too rough. Soon the vehicles in front of us disappeared into the hairpin bends. After some time our driver stopped the Trax and informed us that he would not be able to go any further into the forest as he did not have enough fuel. Without many options left we decided to walk.

What began as an unintentional walk to catch up with the group in front later turned out to be one of the best experiences in my life.

As we walked through the forest with my pace I had got separated and was now walking alone. It was just me and a trail leading me into an unknown terrain of green, lush forest, welcoming me to take notice of its details. The vegetation was very rich and exhaustive.

An unusual thrill soared within me.
Suddenly I heard songs. Loud, noisy camp songs! The delight that was sprouting within me was trampled. I hurriedly walked towards the source and saw the other two Sumos parked onto the side. One of the Sumos had a flat tyre so they couldn’t go any further. So the other vehicle had to leave for the town to get the tyre fixed. The group was enjoying singing and dancing and some still sitting happily atop the vehicle.

Good thing was all forty six of us had to walk.
Not so good being the fact that now I had to share this space of solitude and tranquillity with the rest of us. We started walking together. It is like the standard marathon race where every one starts off together but then soon settles down at their own sweet pace.

Soon I was walking alone, this time intentionally. After I managed to have good distance from everyone around I stopped for everything that caught my attention.

The clouds, the rain, the trees, the mist and the mountains, they were playing amongst themselves. Even though the changes were quick and dramatic it was all so perfect.

I noticed the moss and the other epiphytes draping the branches of the lofty trees, the colourful butterflies fluttering by, from one flower to the other. The musical notes of the chirpy birds, the rain drops falling on to the leaves and the wind echoing through the branches produced a harmonious symphony.

I soon regained my eccentric solitude with absolute silence. The forest had a spiritual realm where everything was at peace. With itself, within itself.

As I walked I came across a patch of lush, grassy undergrowth with bare, charred trunks towering amidst the green canvas like a sore in the eye. I came across various such patches through out the whole walk.

Later I learnt it from the guides that the Indian army had set certain patches of the forest on fire. They wished to build a road through the sanctuary which was not possible otherwise. By burning and clearing up the tree cover the top soil would be lost, a healthy, green forest could then be declared as degraded land. Then with such claims the land is lawfully encroached upon and yet another forest is gone. Pure murder!

Fortunately this time some vigilant social watchdogs prevented this ecological disaster. Now with time and almost nil human interference this patch has re-generated into a beautiful forest, but still bears an ugly testimony of our impending desires and our unsatisfied needs.

It was almost noon but there was still no sign of sun. It had been misty and cloudy throughout with slight drizzles which made the walking pleasant. No leeches made it carefree and more enjoyable as compared to the walk through Pakke National Park where every one was more worried about leech bites.

After walking for about four hours, with innumerable breaks, we reached a small shack. It was here where lunch was supposed to arrive by jeeps but there was no sign of it. Often guys wonder why girls carry such heavy backpacks for short trails. If and when they need to shoulder the load, as poor little thing is not able to carry it anymore, they even grumble. But it’s in moments like these, that we guys are grateful for that extra load they were carrying.

Thirty five girls compared to twelve guys so food was never a problem. While we had a snack-lunch everyone was hoping for the vehicles to arrive. Finally with no signs or sound of the vehicles we decided to walk back. Honestly, I was happy as I wanted to walk back. I wasn’t tired, thanks to the pleasant weather and easy walking.

The group walked faster and was much quieter. That’s what probably hope and despair can do to you, hope of meeting the vehicles on the next turn, despair of walking till that next turn.

The Sanctuary is located in the West Kameng District of Arunachal Pradesh covering an area of 217 sq km. It is truly a bird watchers paradise as we spotted sunbirds, laughing thrush, crow pheasants, chest nut bellied minlas, fly-catchers, bee-eaters and many more.

The guides told us that they have sighted elephant herds, tigers, leopards, gorals and other small mammals. Though we weren’t lucky to see any of them partly because we were making too much noise and secondly because they move onto higher altitudes during monsoons. We did see elephant trails which were nothing but crushed vegetation and trampled trees.

Finally after having walked for an hour or so the two vehicles arrived, with food. Ever since we have started this camp we have been eating non vegetarian meals at least once a day. Today it was fish curry which was simply delicious. It may be also because we all were very hungry. It is a different experience of having food out in the open, in the middle of a forest.

Once we ate full we packed both the vehicles with maximum number of people, especially all those who were tired and could not walk any further. The two guides and only nine of us were left behind. It was almost four by the time the Sumos left for the hotel. We decided to walk hoping for that the Trax was coming back for us.

The sky was clearing up. It had stopped drizzling and now one could see the clouds descending from the horizon. It was a sight to behold. There was still no sign of the sun only the rays falling on to the green blanket below. With the mist clearing up the forest was revealing a different sight. Infinite shades of green.

Slowly but steadily it was getting dark.

After having walked for over seven hours now we were walking at snail pace. Since it was getting dark it was important that every one had to walk together. Even though we were not covering great distance we kept walking. Our observations of the forest had completely narrowed down to the trail in front of us. By now our walk too, had become mechanical, I don’t know if you have ever experienced it. Our feet were just carrying us where our eyes were looking.

Finally we reached an open camp site which is often used by the locals and the guides. If it was raining then probably we would have continued walking. Since it wasn’t we decided to rest there until the Trax arrived. By then the guides had lit up a fire and we all sat around it. The moon was shining bright creating a silhouette of the canopy above, added a spooky feeling, with the trees taking on eerie shapes.

Perfect timing and set up for listening to stories and experiences! Forgetting everything about our surroundings, our physical state and worries we had a good time until we heard the roar of an engine at a distance. In another few moments two beaming headlights shone bright at our faces, lighting up our faces. Finally our ride had arrived!

Tired, soaked and hyperbolically euphoric we packed ourselves into the Sumo and bid farewell to the forest which has been so beautiful throughout the day. Though I didn’t sight any eagles but this one truly is one of the best walks of my life.

silent night..

...it’s strange how we often experience emotions and feelings yet we do not understand them completely nor can we describe them in exact words..

...i mean many a times in our lives we come across an moment where we fail to describe our emotions..

...i mean we feel it, experience it.. but we just can't put them in words..

...that's the beauty about emotions..

i now feel that the moment we label or tag that emotion,
we do injustice to the whole experience..

like i experienced it the other night..
somewhere in the forests of Kanha, while i sat along the riverbed to just sit and listen..

the silence silently crept in..

as i wondered at the silhouetted skyline..
then as i pulled up to the edge of the water..a tiny glow worm sparkled, as if welcoming..

it was dark..and i sat in silence,
bathing in the chilling breeze that tingled my bones,
eventually my attention drifted to the shining constellations..
which for years have been telling us so much about them..
and continues to tell so much about us..

the sky was lit with bright stars twinkling more often than usual as if to get noticed..

it was amazing how the forest which till couple of hours ago was twittering with the treetop mimic and and the jungle fowl, was now so silent..

i heard silence..
and then an unusual yet calm music in this silence..

i closed my eyes..
to listen to the sounds of the forest..

i experienced an innocent sense of wonder that initially startled me,
then lifted me into a magical realm where,
for perhaps a heady instant,
i knew, really knew that these trees could speak..

the images of the forest took over my senses..

the rising sun peeping out from the thick of the forest..
the chirpy inhabitants reminding us of the dawn..
the distant warning of the peafowl from route no. C..
the mutual association of the herd of cheetals and the langurs displaying their team antics..
the fresh pug marks indicating how closely we missed out on an encounter with the yellow stripes striding by..
the towering termite mounds..
the sambhars..
the birds of prey and the prey..
the sight of watching young cheetals wrestle playfully was exhilarating as if i myself had romped away those moments among them.

Perhaps I had.

at the sight of a flock of sailor butterflies dancing around,
i felt my heart slowly lighten and skip-hop in response to the fluttering of a hundred wings..

my appreciation of their "otherness" carried me instantly into another kind of consciousness.

in this state of mind, i was again a child, innocent, playful and wide-eyed.

it is on this unfamiliar ground that i often discover and rediscover my emotions..

i think of these as sweet memories in the making, pleasant interludes in a busy schedule.

i know these excursions are an insight to my understanding of emotions;
rather small journeys into the depths and corners of reality.

i often wonder what i could do in return for giving me these tiny spiritual retreats..
and often end up promising to spend more time with it..

to hear it..

to see it..

to smell it..

to feel it..

and in return it always gives me back something far more nourishing-soul food..

as usual i have tried to put my emotions into words..
and yet i fail miserably..

...that's the beauty about emotions..

Pied pipers of Hemis..

May, 2007..

Hemis gompa was our next stop destination when we embarked into the hired taxis. Situated at an altitude of 12000 ft it was about 45 kms from our hotel in Leh. With the thought of yet another journey floating in my mind, I wasn’t too energized but set out to visit this structure.

Besides having heard interesting facts about Hemis Monastery that it holds the distinction of being the biggest as well as the wealthiest monastery of Ladakh, I wasn’t really looking forward to this monument. I guess this was the effect of ‘other’ monasteries, which bore a testimony of neglect and apathy, have had on me.

And the fact that Hemis gompa dates back to the year 1630, it’s visualisation as a remnant of a distinct culture and history was something that bothered me.

Once we reached the site I realised that my fascination and enticement towards this visit was at its low. I believe it had to do with the fact that both my body and soul wasn’t in sync with the exhaustive travelling that we had undertaken this fortnight.

And while I walked carelessly towards this structure a distant chant caught me anxious. I could hear the beating of drums from the other side of the wall. Synchronised with humming voices it had a captivating effect on me. I walked with hurried steps to locate the source as if I was being drawn towards it.

Once I entered the court of the gompa, I saw a huddle of monks dancing to the tunes of some ancient chants. There were three elderly monks reciting chants from an old manuscript, while the younger ones were following the experienced steps of a monk, who was leading the dance in a circular motion around a flagpole in the yard.

The mesmerising music was a mixture of chants and the sounds, emanating from some unfamiliar instruments, played by these three monks who were closely observing the steps with skilful eyes.

I watched the young monks following every step performed by the monk in the front, who was choreographing his steps to the tune of this tender music. With every movement each word and note seemed to have a greater meaning. The soft and tender chants were so rich in compassionate overtones that their slow movements in accord with the tune seemed soothing.

I saw some other elderly monks amused over the utilities of mobile phones, that the younger monks were carrying, suggesting me of their interaction with the technologically driven, outside world. I was wondering how they have managed to preserve and nurture this 200 yr old tradition. But as I watched them rehearse, I sensed their faithfulness and commitment towards their customs and their daily chores which has become a way of life for them.

Hemis serves as the venue of an annual festival, known as the festival of Tso Chu. It is celebrated every year to commemorate the birth of Padmasambhava, also known as Guru Rimpoche.

And during the festival a sacred mask dance is performed by the monks, dressed in colourful robes and wearing masks depicting various characters, who dance around the main tarchen(flagpole) in the main courtyard. The dance takes place on 9th and 10th day of the fifth month of the Tibetan calendar. Like many other religious beliefs it celebrates the triumph of good over evil.

This monastic festival is special during the year of the monkey, which comes once in 12 yrs, as it marks the birth year of Guru Rimpoche, the founder of Tantrik Buddhism in Tibet.

Unaffected and unconscious of the enthusiastic spectators and visitors, clicking pictures up-close, many without a sense of courtesy, the monks continued to practise for this year’s festival. Till one over-excited visitor decided to join them, to dance, for a picture, the monk leading the dance made offensive gestures to express his annoyance!

I gazed.

There was something in the air that enthralled me. I was getting captivated by the soulful music that hummed into my ears. While I walked sheepishly, close up to the monks who were undisturbed by the presence of the strangers, I realised their attentiveness was too high to be bothered by this intrusion into their space and time.

I walked as if I was hypnotised under their spell.
With calculated steps and moves I went and sat right beside the monks who were creating this magical harmony.

Their chants put me at comfort.
The tune was joyous and resonant to my inner being.

My eyes closed and with a sense of unawareness of the environment I was in, the people around me, the place I was in.. I sat quietly to listen to and feel the tones, the vibrancy and rhythms of the chants.

The melodious tune transported me to a place where I felt emotion without having to 'think' new thoughts. For a moment I realised that I was blank. There were no thoughts of the past or future. I was in the present.

It took my mind away from redundant or negative thinking to joyfulness.

This tender, calming and refreshing music seemed to have a healing effect on my body, mind and soul. I felt as if it broke my cycle of thought, enough to allow my natural energy to flow freely again; my body felt warmer; energized.

I felt I was closer to the ‘One’ than I have ever been. I felt I touched onto something, something unknown yet familiar; and it touched me.
I do not know if it was for real.
All I know for sure is that it gave me a rest; uplifted me when I was feeling out of sorts.

It felt as if I sat there for hours.

There was something about this place that made me feel at peace with myself.
Now I appreciate why music has been an integral part of meditation since the very dawn of civilisation.

I have read that ‘Buddha’ simply meant “one who is awakened”. Even though I have not become a Buddha but I guess I understand what it means to be Buddha. With these worthy rewards, the few minutes I spent in this abode were worth enjoying!

Energized and inspired, I moved on.

A humbled soul..

In pursuit of happiness of a haughty Ego..!!

May 2007..

After having travelled expansively in Kashmir valley and then in Leh, for more than 14 days, my desire to trek on foot was getting irresistible.
And this impending desire was getting even more adulterous with every dawn, when the sunbeams rushed to kiss the snow-clad peaks, making it shine brightly in this undecorated land of bare beauty.

It seemed as if these towering peaks had been constantly teasing me of my insignificance amongst their mighty presence.

And then ‘altitude sickness’ teamed up with this thought of unimportance, through fatigue and weakness to a feeling of ‘not fit for’ impression.

After a day full of activity, the hike to ‘Shanti Stupa’ was made optional, as many of us, including me, were still ailing with the symptoms of altitude sickness. The Stupa is located at Changspa, on the hilltop and is connected by a ‘motorable’ road and a steep flight of stairs. We were to scale it by taking the stairs, which was ought to be a tough climb.

"Shanti Stupa was built by the Japanese who harboured the ambition of spreading Buddhism across the world, in 1985 with aid from the Japanese Government. It was inaugurated by Dalai Lama in 1985. Unlike other structures like the monasteries/Gompas and palaces which has more of a Tibetan influence, this structure is different."


Since this yearning to accomplish these heights had reached its zenith, I thus challenged my spirit to take upon this quest.

Once we reached the foothill, I saw a white structure perched in the sky, stretching out towards the indigo sky and then the stairs that led to it.
At once it looked easy so for a moment the thought of conquering it without any stops brushed my mind.

But since the trek has been very unpredictable from the beginning, I did shrug this thought off.

I did!

I began the ascent with the mantra of being slow and steady and a solitary aim of proving my inhibitions wrong.

After climbing 40 odd steps I was struggling for my breath.
So I soon realised that it wasn’t going to be as easy as it appeared.
While hiking, a black-billed magpie flew right across me without any acknowledgement of my presence. As if this intruder had no real significance in its daily chores. And then I saw more of them hopping and flying from one stone to the other.
It was a sight to see!

All this, while I kept pushing myself to keep climbing constantly, encouraging myself not to stop, in pursuit of happiness of a haughty ego!

Looking back I saw people trying to catch up with their breath which did appeal to me for a moment saying, I should stop too.
But the voice in the head was too strong to let that happen.
So with a sense of achievement I kept walking up the stairs.

With each step taken my legs were getting heavier, I was gasping for more air.
My head was drooping, shoulders had dropped down and hands had reached out to my waist.
And now I didn’t even wanted to turn back and look at my sense of accomplishment.
I cribbed about the fact that this whole suffering was a choice I made.

Soon after few more steps I realised I needed to stop.

I was panting heavily and my lungs were under immense pressure for that one last gasp pf breath.
And yes I did!

While I was struggling to breathe I saw an elderly ‘white’ couple begin their climb from where we had begun. I smiled with the thought of the time they would take to reach the summit or rather meeting them midway while I start my descent.
Soon with new found strength, to beat them in this quest, I began again with the thought of no-more-stops!

I soon realised again, I was wrong!

I stopped more than..hmm..I didn’t count. I couldn’t count. All I was trying to do was to breathe. The elderly couple..not only did they race ahead of me but they reached the Stupa without a single break!

‘Firangs!!’.. I mumbled!

Finally with innumerable breaks I finally managed to reach the summit.
The elderly couple busy capturing the scenic beauty with their SLR passed a courteous smile as if acknowledging my feat.
I did manage to smile back with a sense of achievement, so what if I reached after them. I reached!
That itself was an achievement for me then.

Once on top, I saw an open quad from where I could look over the panoramic view of the chain of mountains.
The peaceful little village of Changspa with typical Ladakhi houses built along a gushing stream, and the towering Namgyal Tsemo in the distance.
I could see the ruins of Leh palace and the victory tower at a distance.

The splendid view from the top alone was well worth the effort.

So I took to the edge of the court and sat quietly to regain myself.

With the setting sun the view was pleasing and scenic!
I could witness the vastness that the mountains around me had in its span.
I could listen to the silence in the chilly wind cutting across me.
I could spot the shades of different colours in the contours of those peaks.
Away from the madness of the world!

It gave me immense pleasure to look down from where we had begun our ascent; saw some of my buddies still hiking at their own sweet pace.

Looking at the azure sky I took this time to sit and listen to the voices that I normally don’t tend to listen to.

And soon white thoughts dotted the white expanse, edges frayed and drifting aimlessly.
Insubstantial thoughts of the past, glinting to get my undivided attention.
So I gazed upon the things the mind doesn’t forget, as if complaining, that I don’t take note of them.
Familiar faces, images, pictures, figures, reflections, visions swarmed my restless thoughts.

Just then a strong breeze tossed my thoughts around!

And after, all was calm again.

The past was blown away, and I was free.
A journey through 580 odd steps and I was free again!

And although this journey has ended, I'll never forget what I've learned along the way, or how I learned to take it day by day.

An egoistic soul..!!